Lazy Miles

A kind man gave Starfox and I a lift from Chester back to the trailhead. Relying on the kindness of strangers has proven a valuable asset along our journey.
It was a slow-moving, I-can’t-believe-we-are-hiking-tonight type of event. Both of us were nearly immobile from town gorging: including a final calorie load at Pine Shack Frosty for bacon cheeseburgers and boysenberry shakes. Oh, okay. That is that. Lucky for us: Mark the nice person stopped on his way home to shuttle us the few miles back to our trekking ground. Easy now. Loitering at trailhead magic (fruits and waters and cookies and soda), we prolonged our hike, sparing enough time for Manchurian to arrive. More procrastinating as we watched him eat a burger and guzzle a Mountain Dew. Within minutes, Kitten and Badseed showed up along with Turtle and Willow. Hikers talkin’ talk: doing what they do best when not hiking.
Manchurian, Starfox and I left in an attempt to capture fading daylight. We walked in a staggered trio for 2 miles or so. Then Starfox and I decided on music, listening to Father John Misty from the backpacking speaker. We found Manchurian at Stover Springs (3.3mi in), and the three of us walked another short bit, uphill, settling on a flat camping spot as twilight lingered. We ate some cookies and everyone went to sleep.
The procrastinating of thinking-about-maybe-starting-to-pack-up and hike has become increasingly difficult. Astronomically. More challenging than actually hiking is stopping and starting again. Starfox and I had the debilitating food/town coma (despite not taking a zero) plus general aches and pains. Just plain tiredness strikes with force. Halfway. Shouldn’t we feel conditioned and well trained? Professional hikers?Slumber is a spell. It is no longer a matter of adrenaline: the beginning of the trip fueled such a wonder at progressive tense. Yes, this is still actually happening. In progress. These days in Northern Cali have proven a new kind of hardship: mental. Body wants to sleep, mind struggles with pushing body into action. It is a matter of taking action. I want this. Yes. Sure. I also want a bed and movies.
It was an ordeal to attempt waking up that morning. Snooze button. Snooze. Two hours. Hear Manchurian pack up and leave camp about 7:30am with the words, “see you later” and “don’t die.”

Hiking with a backpack: a sweaty, hot and dusty affair, like any other day, yet coupled with an overwhelming lazy days mode. Starfox and I were both dragging. Many a break for me. The beauty managed to puncture through seemingly tough times. Lassen! Majestic Lassen! Towering over volcano lands, sprinkled with a few streaks of white snow. Crisp. We entered the National Park section of Lassen, catching primo views and even a side trip to check out Terminal Geyser. A steaming hot burst of spectacle. First I’ve ever seen. CooooooL.
We did 14.5 miles to reach a place called Drakesbad Guest Ranch in the middle of Warner Valley. The ranch is a vacation destination for summering family types who wish to take day walks, stay in cabins and ride horses and play ping-pong. There is a lodge and a full service fancy style food kitchen. PCTers are welcome but regulated: packs and hikers can hang by the picnic table. Off the deck. We were there not quite an hour when Badseed and Beev rocked up and convinced us to hang around. Badseed said Solstice and Lady Ex were not far behind. Okay okay, not too hard to convince us. They arrived with another hiker: Naturally Caffeinated. Golden Boy was a bit behind. Everyone seemed to be in complaining mode about tired times. We ate out of our packs and hiked another half mile. Starfox and I camped, so did Badseed and Beev, but the others climbed out of the valley. Sometimes hikers walk to a post office deadline, and those guys had to make it to Old Station PO the next day (a 24 mile stretch from Drakesbad).
This is Boiling Springs Lake: smells like sulphur.
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The next day Starfox and I were determined to reach Old Station (deli plus market) so we cruised. Old Station is right before Hat Creek Rim: a dry place, capable of forcing responsible hikers to carry five liters. Yet even with the looming heavy pack, yesterday’s struggle seemed worlds away, and we genuinely felt a renewed sense of gladness on trail.
Trotting on boardwalks:
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Pretty deer just don’t care:

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Burned zone:

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Hey ! Distant Lassen!

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These trees are the color of my dog back home: hey girl!

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We walked a long day, venturing through burn area and fallen trees. A break for lunch. I listened to piles of music on excellent headphones. On this day we received a note from Solstice to meet her and crew at the Subway Cave (just past Old Station) for a family style pudding dessert night. Hooray! A note!

We did get to the cave that evening. There was butterscotch pudding with M&MS plus Reese’s cups mixed in. Lots of hiker trash! A batch of us camped at the day-use area at Subway Cave. Subway Cave is a dark cold cave, an area attraction. Boo! Burr! Yikes! This is also the last place to gather water before the 30 mile dry stretch across the magnificent and notorious Hat Creek Rim. We heard rumor of a possible water cache, but we must not count on anything. Just in case.
Starfox and I decided to do a night hike to beat the heat with a drinking-less-water strategy. We lounged until afternoon (all other PCTers had made a break for it at 5am). Suddenly Badseed appeared, and decided to hike the first three miles with us. We all hydrated and set out at nearly 5pm. Starfox and I continued until 11, catching our last peek at Lassen and first of Shasta in the midst. Sunset glow with a distant Mt. Shasta? Okay. I ate oatmeal to celebrate. We napped from 11pm to 3:30 am, and continued walking walking walking. Rocks and dust! Moon very small, stars incredible, but land as dark as night. Yet, no falls for me! Just kicking the lumpy lava ground. Sunrise proved glorious. Hot pink clouds!
30,000 years ago hot lava flowed through a creek bed and left behind sharp rocks and caves and tunnels. Volcanic display! Hella volcano.
We did come to a cache! Water
Cache 22. A trail register and chairs! Nice time for a sit: 6:20 am. Onward. Bach on the speaker, breakfast an hour later. Spirits were high.
Finally we saw water again. The Crystal Springs Fish Hatchery. Shining in the distance. Yes! We got to the picnic area just after 1pm and took full advantage of tables and soft grass. Oh my lounging. Feet will stop being on fire now, thanks.
At dusk we finished the last 4.5 miles to highway 299, where we camped.
The morning put us on the highway, thumbs out. Get us to Burney, CA for laundry, resupply, and greasy spoon (hello!?). Gotta eat again and again. Sure do.
A self titled “old-timer” named Tim in a big pickup truck swooped us the 7 miles to Burney. Tim spent the duration of the drive discussing how cell phones were the downfall of family time. He left us on Main Street telling us “you made my day.” We thanked him profusely, then proceeded directly into the local diner: Blackberry Patch. We then hit an over eating threshold.
Food overload.
Chores.
Sights and sounds.
Keeping it real on the trail.
We are becoming more and more hobo like every week.
Wolfpack: we gonna get you!
All you other hiker trash: we see you!

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3 thoughts on “Lazy Miles

  1. Jeff says:

    great narration. very funny and real.

  2. Mel says:

    Can only womder when u have time for writing, but glad you do.
    Mel, Echo Trail Angel.

  3. Ranee says:

    I’ve been following you since you started your adventure. I live close to the PCT in Trinity County. I’ve plucked one of your companions off the trail near Etna due to giardia. He is recovering and eager to get back on trail. Be careful with your water. It can bring some people down. Thank you for your writings. Happy Trails. Ranee from Weaverville, CA

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